28 Apr Should I Use a Toner? A Consultant Dermatologist Explains What Toners Do, Who Needs One, and Who Doesn’t

By Dr Emma Wedgeworth, Consultant Dermatologist (Harley Street, London). Reviewed April 2026.

Few skincare products generate as much confusion as toner. Patients ask me about it in clinic almost every week. Some swear it transformed their skin. Others tell me they’ve used it for years out of habit and aren’t sure why. A growing group are wondering if it’s an unnecessary step that’s quietly stripping their barrier.

So who’s right? Should you actually be using a toner? And what does a “toner” even mean in 2026?

This guide is the answer I give in clinic, expanded properly. As a Consultant Dermatologist, my view is straightforward: a toner is optional, not essential. Some skin types and goals benefit from it. Most don’t need it. The trick is knowing which group you’re in, and choosing wisely if you decide to use one.

What is a toner, and how has it changed?

A “toner” is a broad term, and that’s part of the confusion. The toners your mother used in the 1990s are not the toners on shelves today.

The original toners were astringent, often heavily alcohol-based liquids. They were used after old-fashioned alkaline soaps to remove residue, “rebalance” the skin’s pH and tighten pores. Many of them stung. Many of them stripped the barrier. They became outdated as cleansers improved.

Modern toners sit somewhere on a spectrum from “lightweight hydrating mist” to “low-strength acid treatment”. They’re typically water-based, applied after cleansing and before serums. Their job is to:

• Remove the last traces of cleanser, makeup or sunscreen.
• Add a thin layer of hydration.
• Support the skin’s natural pH (less critical than it used to be, since most modern cleansers are already pH-balanced).
• Optionally deliver a low dose of an active (gentle exfoliating acid, antioxidant, soothing botanical).
• “Prep” the skin so subsequent serums absorb more easily.

So when someone asks me “should I use a toner?”, what I’m really asking back is: what kind of toner are you considering, and what are you trying to achieve?

What a good toner can (and cannot) do

A 2023 review in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology concluded that modern toners can offer modest benefits in hydration, mild exfoliation and product-layering experience, but should not be considered essential to a healthy routine ¹. That mirrors my clinical view.

What a well-formulated toner can do

• Top up hydration between cleanser and moisturiser.
• Deliver low-dose actives (PHA, lactic acid, niacinamide) more gently than a standalone serum.
• Support the barrier if it includes ceramides, panthenol or fatty acids.
• Improve the feel of subsequent layering, especially in dry climates or in winter (see winter skincare).
• Provide a calming step in oily, congested or acne-prone skin if formulated correctly.

What a toner cannot do

• Permanently shrink pores. Pores are not doors; they don’t open and close. Toners may transiently reduce their appearance.
• Replace a serum. A toner generally has lower concentrations of actives than a dedicated serum.
• Replace a moisturiser. Hydration alone won’t seal the barrier.
• Compensate for the wrong cleanser. If your cleanser is stripping you, fix the cleanser, don’t add a toner on top.
• Treat a medical skin condition on its own. Acne, rosacea, eczema, pigmentation: these are dermatology problems first, toner problems never.

And what to be wary of

• Alcohol-heavy toners can dehydrate the skin and weaken the barrier. Look at the ingredients list.
• Strong acid toners (high-strength glycolic, salicylic) used too often can over-exfoliate, especially layered with retinoids.
• Heavily fragranced toners can sensitise reactive skin.

Should I use a toner? A decision flow

Here’s how I run the decision in clinic. There isn’t one “right” answer, but there is a right answer for you.

Step 1: Assess your skin and your goals

• Dry, sensitive or barrier-compromised: a hydrating, alcohol-free, fragrance-free toner can help. Or skip and use a richer moisturiser.
• Normal or combination: optional. Often unnecessary if your routine is already well chosen.
• Oily, congested or acne-prone: a low-strength salicylic acid or PHA toner can be useful, but cautiously and not daily.
• On strong actives (retinoids, prescription topicals): be conservative. Avoid stacking exfoliating toners on the same nights.

Step 2: Look at the rest of your routine

If you already use a hydrating serum, antioxidant serum, a good moisturiser and SPF, your skin is probably well supported. Adding a toner needs a clear job.

If your cleanser leaves your skin tight after washing, that’s the bigger issue. Fix the cleanser first.

Step 3: Start gently

If you decide to try one, begin with a hydrating toner (no alcohol, no strong acids, fragrance-free). Use it in the evening for 2 to 4 weeks. Watch how your skin responds.

Step 4: Watch for signal, not noise

• Helping: less tightness after cleansing, more comfortable layering, gentle improvement in dryness or texture.
• Not helping: stinging, redness, peeling, increased sensitivity. Pause and reassess.

Step 5: Decide

If your skin loves it, keep it. If you can’t tell the difference after a month, you don’t need it. Many of the patients I see have built and rebuilt their routines without a toner and have outstanding skin. Others swear by their hydrating mist. Both are fine.

How I personally use one

In honest, full-disclosure mode: I use a lightweight hydrating, alcohol-free, fragrance-free toner in the evening on days when my skin feels slightly dehydrated. On evenings I use a glycolic or enzyme exfoliant, I either skip the toner or use a basic hydrating one. In the morning, I usually go straight from cleanser into antioxidant serum, moisturiser and SPF.

That’s the version I recommend to most patients who ask. It’s optional, simple and barrier-friendly.

How to choose the right toner

If you’ve decided to use one, here’s how to choose well.

What I look for

• Alcohol-free (avoid “alcohol denat” or “ethanol” near the top of the list).
• Fragrance-free or very low fragrance.
• pH-balanced and mildly acidic (around 4.5 to 5.5).
• Hydrating ingredients: hyaluronic acid, glycerin, panthenol, sodium PCA, ceramides.
• Optional gentle actives, only if you have a clear reason: low-strength PHA (gluconolactone) for sensitive skin, low-strength salicylic acid for acne-prone, niacinamide for tone and barrier.
• Soothing or antioxidant ingredients for sensitive skin: green tea, centella asiatica, peptides.

Texture and format

• Watery toners and mists: lightweight, quick-absorbing.
• “Lotion” toners (the K-beauty/J-beauty style): slightly thicker, more hydrating.
• Dropper or pump bottle: easier to dispense.

Application

• Press, don’t wipe. Pour a small amount into your palm and press into the skin. The patting method respects the barrier.
• Cotton pads are fine if you prefer them, but be gentle. No scrubbing.
• A few millilitres is enough per application (3-5 ml). Overuse is wasteful and can be irritating.
• Avoid the eye area with stronger formulations.

Where toner sits in your routine

Apply products from thinnest to thickest:

1. Cleanse.
2. Toner / essence (if using).
3. Serums or treatments (vitamin C, niacinamide, peptides, prescription actives).
4. Moisturiser or barrier repair.
5. Sunscreen (morning only).

Frequency

• Hydrating toners: can be used twice daily if your skin tolerates.
• Acid toners: start once or twice a week, never on the same nights as retinoids or other strong actives.
• Spot treatment toners: target specific areas rather than coating the whole face.

Things to watch

• Avoid the eye area, lips and nostrils with stronger formulations.
• If you use prescription actives or retinoids, don’t pile a similar-strength toner on top.
• Listen to your skin. Burning, peeling or new sensitivity = pause.

When skipping a toner makes sense

If any of these apply, you probably don’t need one:

• Your skin feels comfortable, hydrated and balanced with cleanser, serum, moisturiser and SPF.
• You’re on multiple active treatments and your skin is at the edge of its tolerance.
• Your barrier is currently compromised (eczema flare, recent peel or laser, sensitive period).
• You’d rather invest your skincare budget in a high-quality serum, moisturiser or SPF.

A great routine is built on a small number of well-chosen products. A toner should add value, not just length.

Skin-specific guidance

Acne-prone skin

A low-strength salicylic acid toner can be helpful, used 2 to 3 times a week, especially around the chest and back. Don’t combine with retinoids on the same night. See acne.

Rosacea or sensitive skin

Stick to alcohol-free, fragrance-free hydrating toners. Avoid acids. See rosacea.

Mature or menopausal skin

A hydrating, antioxidant-rich toner can be a small daily comfort. Layer under serum and moisturiser. See mature skin and menopausal skin.

Teen skin

Generally, no toner needed for everyday teen skincare. A simple cleanser, moisturiser and SPF beats a five-step routine. See teen skin.

Pregnancy and postpartum

Most fragrance-free, alcohol-free hydrating toners are fine. Avoid high-strength salicylic acid in pregnancy. See pregnancy skincare and postpartum skin.

Pigmentation and melasma

A niacinamide-based toner can support a brightening protocol but isn’t doing the heavy lifting. SPF and treatment ingredients (azelaic acid, vitamin C, tranexamic acid) matter more. See pigmentation.

Frequently asked questions

What does toner actually do?

A modern toner adds a thin layer of hydration, removes any residue left after cleansing, supports the skin’s pH and (depending on formulation) can deliver a small dose of active ingredients to support tone, texture or barrier.

Do I need a toner?

No. Toners are optional, not essential. A well-built routine of cleanser, serum, moisturiser and SPF works perfectly well for most skin types without one.

What’s the difference between a toner and an essence?

The line is blurred. In Western skincare, “toner” tends to be lighter and more astringent; “essence” tends to be more hydrating and slightly thicker. In modern Korean and Japanese skincare, the names are often interchangeable.

Is toner the same as micellar water?

No. Micellar water is a cleanser. Toner is a step after cleansing. Don’t replace one with the other.

Should I use toner morning and night?

Hydrating toners can be used twice a day if your skin likes them. Acid-based toners should be used less often, typically 1 to 3 times a week.

Will a toner help shrink my pores?

Not permanently. Toners can transiently reduce the appearance of pores, but the size of pores is largely genetic and influenced by oil production and skin laxity. Long-term improvement comes from retinoids, sun protection and sometimes in-clinic treatments.

Will a toner clear my acne?

A low-strength salicylic acid toner used judiciously can support an acne routine, but it won’t clear acne on its own. If you have acne, the foundation should be evidence-based topical or oral treatment under dermatological care.

Are toners safe in pregnancy?

Most fragrance-free, alcohol-free hydrating toners are considered safe in pregnancy. Avoid high-strength salicylic acid and any retinoid-based products. See pregnancy skincare.

Can a toner damage my skin barrier?

It can if it’s heavily alcohol-based, strongly fragranced or contains high-strength acids used too often. A well-formulated toner should support the barrier, not weaken it.

How do I know if my toner is working?

You should notice less tightness after cleansing, smoother layering, and gentle improvement in hydration over 4 weeks. If your skin feels worse (stinging, peeling, increased sensitivity), pause and reassess.

Related reading

• Acne, rosacea, eczema, pigmentation.
• Mature skin, menopausal skin, teen skin.
• Seasonal: winter skincare.
• Life stage: pregnancy skincare, postpartum skin.

A note from Dr Emma

I want patients to feel empowered to skip steps as well as to add them. A toner is a “nice to have” in modern skincare, not a “must have”. The fundamentals are still cleanser, well-chosen actives, moisturiser and daily SPF.

If you’re unsure where to start or feel overwhelmed by the noise online, you can book a consultation at my Harley Street clinic. We’ll build a routine around what your skin actually needs.

Important information

This article is for general information only and is not medical advice. If you have a specific skin condition, please book a consultation with a qualified consultant dermatologist for a personalised plan.

References

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1. Draelos ZD (2023). “The role of toners in modern skincare: a clinical perspective.” Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 22(7):1991-1998.↩︎